I had gradually been anticipating our visit with John Fothergill more and more as we approached our departure from Glacier. John and I were one of three in our class to live in the Highlands and the three of us (along with John's dad, Charlie, who taught English for many years at KCD) would regularly carpool out to school. In doing so, we became fast friends.
He had basically lived in Montana ever since high school so I had seen very little of him, surely not after a few meetups in our early 20s. Would he have a big bushy beard like his dad? Would he be balding? Would he be beefed out and bronze from working for the Park Service and Bureau of Land Management for so many years? When he opened the door, it was largely the same old John.
He and his partner Sarah live in a historic home in the North Side of Missoula and treated us amazingly well from the simple comfort of a bed and pillow to the delicious biodynamic burgers from the farmers market and salads and burritos from harvested ingredients in their backyard garden. However, what stands out to me is how tremendous of an ambassador of his state he is. From regaling us with its history and politics over dinner or coffee, to giving us a bike tour of the city's many amazing spots over a few hours in our first full day, to taking us to a country two-step bar/karaoke joint it was clear he loved the region he lived and worked in. Aside: Tina Turner's 'Private Dancer' went over surprisingly well. I bonded with a couple dudes, encouraging one to ignore the audience and sing Duo's 'Holy Diver' if that was what was in his heart. They even asked if I would play guitar in a Dio cover band in Missoula.
He had basically lived in Montana ever since high school so I had seen very little of him, surely not after a few meetups in our early 20s. Would he have a big bushy beard like his dad? Would he be balding? Would he be beefed out and bronze from working for the Park Service and Bureau of Land Management for so many years? When he opened the door, it was largely the same old John.
He and his partner Sarah live in a historic home in the North Side of Missoula and treated us amazingly well from the simple comfort of a bed and pillow to the delicious biodynamic burgers from the farmers market and salads and burritos from harvested ingredients in their backyard garden. However, what stands out to me is how tremendous of an ambassador of his state he is. From regaling us with its history and politics over dinner or coffee, to giving us a bike tour of the city's many amazing spots over a few hours in our first full day, to taking us to a country two-step bar/karaoke joint it was clear he loved the region he lived and worked in. Aside: Tina Turner's 'Private Dancer' went over surprisingly well. I bonded with a couple dudes, encouraging one to ignore the audience and sing Duo's 'Holy Diver' if that was what was in his heart. They even asked if I would play guitar in a Dio cover band in Missoula.
Our second morning, and an off day for John, he actually took us out to the Blackfoot Valley, an area he would normally be for work and we went birding in an area suitable for waterfowl. Given my mom, uncle, and grandfather's perpetual interest in birds being a part of growing up, I've always been fascinated as well. The sounds for me are as exciting as spotting, identifying, and discussing though. It is a hobby both Knak and I agreed we could see ourselves exploring.
Our visit ended with what Sarah heard was an unannounced high level political meeting at her workplace: Kettle House Brewery. The meeting she heard, and verified with a coworker, was to be between the Chinese ambassador to the US and the Governor of Montana. This was something we all agreed could not be missed. Chinese news reporters, CCTV, were there along with their news cameras who caught footage of the Kentucky delegation patiently waiting at the bar. And we waited.
The closest we got to this high level meeting was a Chinese news interview with the Lieutenant Governor. Oh well, it was still a funny thing to try to crash and gave us many laughs as we approached the 'big meeting'.
I was sad to leave this pleasant interlude and John's love for his state was something I found really inspiring. John suggested many places upon our departure, most near Missoula, and Greg and I both agreed the free spots nearby should be capitalized upon before we headed to more civilized areas.
Night one was spent in an overgrown area of the Lolo Trail near Howards Creek. This appealed to us because this part of the trail was walked on by the Corps of Discovery. The concern over bears had never been more on our mind, especially when we saw the skeletal remains of a sizeable animal just across from our tent. The limited visibility and cries of either elk or moose in the distance added a new dimension to our evening and to the spookiness.
The next morning we walked a bit of the trail. I couldn't help but reflect on the reality that these trails in parks are truly historic. They were walked by Natives for probably a thousand or more years, and more recently by American trappers, traders, and soldiers in the various 'Indian Wars' that eventually would lead to the unfortunate eradication of those Native Americans. It's, ultimately, the most tragic story in the history of the Americas.
We are now sitting at the campsite for day 22 on the morning ofi day 23. We are in Idaho in an area up Elk Summit Drive. Yesterday, aside from a brief stop in Devoto Grove (dedicated to the editor of the condensed Lewis and Clark journals that most people read), we have had a lazy day. We are headed to some hot springs shortly for a relaxing morning soak before making real headway to Lewiston, which is coupled with its neighboring Clarkston. The Corps of Discovery references will never end.
The closest we got to this high level meeting was a Chinese news interview with the Lieutenant Governor. Oh well, it was still a funny thing to try to crash and gave us many laughs as we approached the 'big meeting'.
I was sad to leave this pleasant interlude and John's love for his state was something I found really inspiring. John suggested many places upon our departure, most near Missoula, and Greg and I both agreed the free spots nearby should be capitalized upon before we headed to more civilized areas.
Night one was spent in an overgrown area of the Lolo Trail near Howards Creek. This appealed to us because this part of the trail was walked on by the Corps of Discovery. The concern over bears had never been more on our mind, especially when we saw the skeletal remains of a sizeable animal just across from our tent. The limited visibility and cries of either elk or moose in the distance added a new dimension to our evening and to the spookiness.
The next morning we walked a bit of the trail. I couldn't help but reflect on the reality that these trails in parks are truly historic. They were walked by Natives for probably a thousand or more years, and more recently by American trappers, traders, and soldiers in the various 'Indian Wars' that eventually would lead to the unfortunate eradication of those Native Americans. It's, ultimately, the most tragic story in the history of the Americas.
We are now sitting at the campsite for day 22 on the morning ofi day 23. We are in Idaho in an area up Elk Summit Drive. Yesterday, aside from a brief stop in Devoto Grove (dedicated to the editor of the condensed Lewis and Clark journals that most people read), we have had a lazy day. We are headed to some hot springs shortly for a relaxing morning soak before making real headway to Lewiston, which is coupled with its neighboring Clarkston. The Corps of Discovery references will never end.
Several brief reflections/observations that don't really fit the above narrative.
First, as I have snapped hundreds of pictures on this trip, I have been thinking a lot about Ansel Adams and early photography. It is something that is important to consider because the craft of photography has changed so drastically with digital technology. The weight, consideration, and process back then was so much more intense and painstaking. It required genuine commitment. My approach is what I call 'the machine gun approach': I take five pictures and hope that one turns out. I can't imagine walking up a mountain and only being able to take three, five, even ten pictures. In short, much love to old school photographers.
Second, driving to Missoula through the Blackfeet reservation, it was really great to see signs for creeks, rivers, and other geographic features indicated in both English and Blackfeet.
Third, driving from the Blackfeet Valley back to Missoula after birding, John explained to us the concept of glamping. This is basically 'glamour camping' for rich people. They have fancy tents with butlers waiting outside apparently. I feel sad for people who think this is some approximation of camping.
Fourth, I think I'm starting to get numb to the beauty of the landscape. I find myself wanting to stop less and taking fewer pictures. Part of this is because Greg is generally less excited at the idea of stopping, but part is definitely being overloaded with beauty. I wonder if John ever gets numb to the beauty of Montana like I certainly get numb to the beauty of Kentucky?
Fifth and finally, the wheels are starting to come off a bit. Greg is increasingly bringing up how he's ready to be home. He has a lot of things building on his mind as the return is coming up. There's a lot less conversation and a bit more conflict. It is natural that two people with different habits, ways of communicating, quirks, and values are going to irritate one another from to time. This gets to the myth that some historians blinded by their romanticization of the Lewis and Clark story perpetuate. There is the idea that Lewis and Clark never fought simply because there is no record of such conflict in their journals. I see that as irresponsible and unrealistic history. It is disappointing that this mythmaking in history continues. Consider the audience their writing was geared toward: President Jefferson and other government officials considering future policy in the Louisiana Territory. Journaling about irrelevant drama would have added no value to their report
Nevertheless, it is human nature to disagree and have moments of crankiness. As we approach the third week it is happening, so I can't comprehend why a historian or rational human would think that after two and a half years of traveling, Lewis and Clark wouldn't have had some conflict. Greg and I are friends, Lewis and Clark are friends. Friends can fight and move past it. We have and will, they did as well.
Onwards and upwards to to Jerry Johnson Hot Springs and then Washington today.
First, as I have snapped hundreds of pictures on this trip, I have been thinking a lot about Ansel Adams and early photography. It is something that is important to consider because the craft of photography has changed so drastically with digital technology. The weight, consideration, and process back then was so much more intense and painstaking. It required genuine commitment. My approach is what I call 'the machine gun approach': I take five pictures and hope that one turns out. I can't imagine walking up a mountain and only being able to take three, five, even ten pictures. In short, much love to old school photographers.
Second, driving to Missoula through the Blackfeet reservation, it was really great to see signs for creeks, rivers, and other geographic features indicated in both English and Blackfeet.
Third, driving from the Blackfeet Valley back to Missoula after birding, John explained to us the concept of glamping. This is basically 'glamour camping' for rich people. They have fancy tents with butlers waiting outside apparently. I feel sad for people who think this is some approximation of camping.
Fourth, I think I'm starting to get numb to the beauty of the landscape. I find myself wanting to stop less and taking fewer pictures. Part of this is because Greg is generally less excited at the idea of stopping, but part is definitely being overloaded with beauty. I wonder if John ever gets numb to the beauty of Montana like I certainly get numb to the beauty of Kentucky?
Fifth and finally, the wheels are starting to come off a bit. Greg is increasingly bringing up how he's ready to be home. He has a lot of things building on his mind as the return is coming up. There's a lot less conversation and a bit more conflict. It is natural that two people with different habits, ways of communicating, quirks, and values are going to irritate one another from to time. This gets to the myth that some historians blinded by their romanticization of the Lewis and Clark story perpetuate. There is the idea that Lewis and Clark never fought simply because there is no record of such conflict in their journals. I see that as irresponsible and unrealistic history. It is disappointing that this mythmaking in history continues. Consider the audience their writing was geared toward: President Jefferson and other government officials considering future policy in the Louisiana Territory. Journaling about irrelevant drama would have added no value to their report
Nevertheless, it is human nature to disagree and have moments of crankiness. As we approach the third week it is happening, so I can't comprehend why a historian or rational human would think that after two and a half years of traveling, Lewis and Clark wouldn't have had some conflict. Greg and I are friends, Lewis and Clark are friends. Friends can fight and move past it. We have and will, they did as well.
Onwards and upwards to to Jerry Johnson Hot Springs and then Washington today.